My friend Dave and his daughter Maya came to climb in the Bugaboos in August 2012. Here are some photos of our trip.

My photos


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The view looking from the parking lot up to Hounds Tooth and the Bugaboo Glacier.


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Here's Maya with my chicken-wired car behind her. This is necessary to keep the porcupines from eating
your brake lines and other rubber lines.


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Dave and Maya ready to head into the Bugaboos.


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Just to show that it's not just me who is chicken-wiring their car, have a look at the parking lot here.


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The trail up to the hut is pretty steep covering ~4km but picking up 750m of elevation gain.
Note the shadow of Bugaboo Spire behind Dave as he's climbing the ladder on the trail.


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This is the view of Snowpatch Spire (named after the snowpatch on it) looking up from the hut. We arrived
into the hut after 2 flights for Dave and Maya, a 4.5 hour drive, and a 2.5 hour hike in. Big day.

Day 1 - The West Ridge of Pigeon


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We decided that as a party of three, we should try something reasonably light to check how quickly we move.
We left the hut in the dark with headlamps on, just after 6 AM in order to get an early start. This is the
view looking to the east.


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Here's Dave with his headlamp on, tying up his boots.


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Here's Maya, ready for the adventure.


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Dave and Maya making their way up the talus field from the hut to the toe of Bugaboo Glacier.
Rather than risk the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, we elected to take the longer route and travel via the Pigeon
Arm of the Bugaboo Glacier.


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Early sunlight off Bugaboo Spire (back right side) and the front of Son of Snowpatch.


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I must say that the ceracs on the Bugaboo Glacier were pretty awesome. Looking at the blue colour and the aggressive
icefall gave me a new respect for the power of nature.

Video of the Bugaboo Glacier



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Maya along with Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboo Provincial Park, BC, Canada.


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This gives a bit of a look at Hound's Tooth and Marmolata looking across the Bugaboo Glacier. I thought the ice
and the crevasses were pretty awesome.


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The first bit of glacier we travelled is ~25% grade. Here are Maya and Dave attached to the rope traveling
on the Bugaboo Glacier.


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This icefall (Pigeon-Snowpatch Icefall) is pretty much unpassable.


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I think this photo is cool of Dave and Maya along with Snowpatch Spire behind them. Bugaboo Spire is
just visible above the icefall as well.


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A slightly better close-up of the same view.


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Maya along with a crevasse that we're staying a good distance from.


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Dave and Maya looking down the glacier.


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Maya along with Marmolata.


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As we got higher up on the col, the view to the southwest looked pretty neat. Check out the boot prints
going up Fingerberry on the left. That looks a little aggressive to me.


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Here's Maya with the rest of the Bugaboo main glacier behind her. That's Howser Peak behind her.


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This is the view as we're coming into the Pigeon-Howser Col.


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This is the first look we had at the West Ridge route. Most of this is 4th class with some real
climbing in some spots. The route goes right along the ridge.


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Dave looking back at the Bugaboo Glacier.


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This was our first view looking down at the Vowell Glacier from the start of the climb. That's Bugaboo
Spire on the right.

View from Pigeon-Howser Col



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We climbed this as a party of three simul-climbing. We kept Maya in the middle and just had her swap
gear from one side of her harness to the other. That's the south Howser Tower behind Dave and Maya.


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This shot gives a look at the quality of granite we're climbing on.


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Maya, climbing with the Bugaboo Spire in the distance.


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Some people (they look like ants) on the glacier between us and Bugaboo.


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The West Ridge is a neat route since it has two false summits and one real one. This is climbing
from the top of the first summit back down to this steeper section that Dave is leading. It looks
a lot steeper than it is. I really should have taken my trad shoes...


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Here's Maya with the summit block behind her. There's a friction pitch of 5.4 just behind this
prow that you climb to the top and then rappel down.


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Tell me that this isn't the most amazing view in the world.

View from Pigeon Spire



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Maya, along with the Howser Towers.


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There is so much traffic on this route that the normally black granite is slightly white in colour now. This makes
it a little easier to follow the route.


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Since I screwed up and packed my sport shoes, my feet hurt REALLY bad all day. I was SOOO happy to take them off
and put my boots back on. It's funny to think that hiking boots can feel amazing. Here are Dave and Maya just
getting their crampons on for the hike out along the Vowell Glacier.


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Check out this small bergschrund. Yeehaw.


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It is from this vantage point that the pigeon spire is named. It is said to look like a pigeon getting
ready for take-off.


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We rappelled down the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col (two double-ropes) and got into and then out of the bergschrund.
This is the view as the sun is setting and we still have an hour hike back for dinner.


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A look back up the Col.


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Dave and Maya and the Snowpatch Spire. It just looks intimidating from this side.

Day 2 - Climbing Crescent Tower


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After a 16 hour adventure, we decided to dial back our output a little. We decided to climb Lion's Way on Crescent Tower. Here's Dave taking a photo of the Conrad Kain hut, our home for the weekend.


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We didn't really need crampons on the Crescent Glacier.


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The dirty black thing is what our target was on this day.

A look at Crescent Towers



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We climbed Lion's Way again as a party of three and chose to properly pitch it out. We used my friend
Scott's half ropes, which made this a little more palatable. This is a small tarn along with Maya from
the top of the first pitch.


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I give the view of Snowpatch and Pigeon the Paul Perrault stamp of approval.


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Dave and Maya climbing the 5th pitch. The crux 5.6 pitch was neat and had a cool crack line in it.


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Maya along with the Donkey's Ears.


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The view from the top of the 5th pitch.


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Maya along with some sweet granite. I would say that the rock quality was lower on this route than on Pigeon for sure.


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Me and the Bugaboo Spire. That's the NE Ridge on the right and the Kain route on the left. Both are big, committing
climbs that I'll do someday.


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Dave and Snowpatch Spire.


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I give this climb the Paul Perrault stamp of approval.

Video of the summit of Crescent Spire



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I thought this had really neat light on it as we descended the route.


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Everything looks better after you've climbed it.

Day 3 - Out for a Glacier Tour


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Since we only had a 6 hour time window, we decided to go back up on the Bugaboo Glacier for a troll.


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Another great shot of the Bugaboo, Snowpatch, and Pigeon Spires.


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Dave, enjoying the luxury of the Kain hut. It's pretty awesome.


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One of the temporary bridges down from the hut. Dave is on the bridge enroute home.


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Maya on the bridge along with Snowpatch Spire behind her. Not too bad view for sure.


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We had dinner and stayed over in Radium so that we didn't have to bust our humps to get back to Calgary.
The town is completely overrun with rams right now.


Dave's photos


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Dave and I in the parking lot.


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The ladder on the hiking trail into the hut.


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Maya along with the chains on the hiking route.


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Me, along with Snowpatch Spire on the way into the hut. I've really started enjoying the hiking poles lately.


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Me and the Bugaboo Spire on the West Ridge of Pigeon.


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Look how beautiful this rock is.


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Me and the Crescent Tower.


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Maya and I coming up the summit block of the middle Crescent Tower.


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I'm showing how hard the last move is (not really).


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I was MUCH happier to put my hiking boots on.


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We could see two guys on the top of Donkey's Ears that was pretty cool.


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Inside the Kain hut getting ready for dinner.


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Most of the hut cooked dehydrated food since it's so easy. We did have Fuzzy Peaches, chocolate, and
Swedish Fish to spice up the trip though.


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Sorting out where we're going for the day.


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A nice shot of Snowpatch Spire.


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Maya and I at the Kain Hut.


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Me coming down the bridge from the hut.


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Any hiking trail that has a ladder is pretty sweet.


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Another ram in Radium.


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Dave and Maya at Banff Hot Springs.


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A little nicer photo of these two.


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Dave and I walking back from the Banff Hot Springs. What a great trip!

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