Scott and I decided we wanted to make a summit attempt on Mt Sir Donald. Here are the photos of
our attempt


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Scott and I both had a small time window to get some climbing in so we decided to high-tail it
to Roger's Pass and put an attempt on Mt Sir Donald. By the time we got our permit and got sorted out
it was about 4pm. Here we are at the parking lot for the hike.


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Here's one of our first looks at Mt Sir Donald. It's the big one on the left.


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Here's Scott with Mt Sir D above him.


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I think that this is Young's Peak, but I've never skied there, so I don't know for sure.


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Here's Scott along with a pretty cascading waterfall. Scott was on a serious mission to get up to
our bivy site as fast as possible.


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This is looking down into the Asulkun drainage and the Illecillewaet drainage from our approach. The mountains
behind that are across the highway from Roger's Pass and where some of the best skiing is.


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We elected to bypass the lower bivy site and instead head to the upper bivy site. Here is Scott finding the trail
towards the Vaux Glacier.


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A nice shot of the Vaux Glacier.


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Since we didn't take the well-flagged, well-maintained trail, we wound up going up this glacial moraine.
It was relentless and steep.


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This is looking back down the moraine that we just hiked up.


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Here is Scott with our bivy site (in the col between Sir D and Uto) to his left.


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This looks down at the lower bivy site, which has water, and is less than an hour's hike from the upper
bivy site and the col. Yes, we'd stay there instead of the upper bivy next time.


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After about 4 hours of hiking, Scott was getting into the 'bonk' mood. This isn't a fun state to be
at all, so we quickly made our way to camp and set up for dinner.


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Scott wandering over talus fields with the Illecillewaet drainage behind him.


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The view of the route from our bivy was pretty terrific. It was also a little bit terrifying as it looked
like more than a 5.4 scramble.


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Here's Scott setting up our bivy site. Just below Scott is the Uto Glacier and a look to the west at where
the Purcell Lodge is.


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The sun setting with our bear bins in the foreground.


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Scott, with some hot apple cider, food in his belly, and a much renewed optimism.


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As the sun was setting, here was the look at the route. It's the obvious line up the ridge.


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Scott taking a pee in a pretty sweet place.


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Sunset from Mt Sir Donald-Uto Col. Not a bad place to spend the night - unless you only brought your
+15 deg C sleeping bag...


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After a night of shivering and being an idiot, we were up before dawn to have breakfast and get ourselves
going. Both Scott and I were excited, but a little nervous.


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While I don't have any photos of us climbing, here's a shot of the Uto glacier with some of the grey/black
clouds that eventually snowed/rained/and hailed on us.

Video of Scott downclimbing Mr Sir Donald



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Here is Scott downclimbing the Northeast Ridge of Mt Sir Donald. Next time Scott.


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The alpine toilet is in a cool spot. This was during a brief blue sky moment and then the rains
started again.


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This marmot was hanging out on the trail as we made our descent down.


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The peak of Mt Sir D with some clouds on it. Next time.

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