My good friends Brad Jacobs and Jeff Stanley flew out from Boston for a late season climbing
trip. Despite the cold weather, we still had a great trip.
Brad and Jeff enjoying the brisk morning air. The air temperature prior to getting on the rock was
about -5 C. Jeff is showing off the excellent Smith Rocks guide book.
Getting a start on the Morning Glory wall as always, the guys get up on Five Gallon Buckets .
Nice helmet Jeff!
Here is Juan going up the second pitch of Bunny Face . A nice 5.7 two pitch climb.
Brad found the climate unlike Venezulan beaches, hence the need for a nice ski toque. This is in the
Dihedrals area and the climb Brad is trying is a cool 5.9 called Helium Woman .
Jeff is playing on Helium Woman with Brandon Busch, the intrepid Minnesotan adventurer, looking on from above.
This is the most photographed climb at Smith Rock. It is in the Dihedrals area and is called
Chain Reaction . It is an absolutely sick 5.12c knife-edge climb and here you see an unknown climber
going up the nose.
Here Jeff hangs out on Captain Xenolith . This is the picture he wanted his mom to see. "Look Mom, I'm
a real climber!"
After falling trying to work the crux, Brad hangs out on Captain Xenolith . It's all about
working those tiny non-existant nubbins.
I promised Brad that I would put at least one picture showing how high he can climb. Way to go Dude!
It's important to note that this 5.9 on the back side of Smith (Sunset Slab) somehow got four stars.
Maybe it was just the cold wind blowing, but a slab climb with rock falling doesn't get four stabs from me. Again,
nice toque Brad.
Here Jeff is trying to do his best Paul-tourist pose at the top of a climb.
While tough to see, Juan and Josh are four pitches up on a newly bolted climb on the back side,
near Asterisk Pass.
They are a little easier to discern in this shot.
Brad Jacobs and Jeff Stanley enjoying a beautiful evening at Smith. Seriously, this is one of the
world's great climbing destinations.
The last day we climbed, we mostly stuck around Christian Brothers. This is a 5.9 called Revelations.
After an almost 20 foot first clip, this climb is just a great time.
The river that runs all around the rock is called Crooked River.
Matt Spawn is one of the best climbers with whom I've ever had the good fortune of climbing.
A strong yet graceful climber, Matt still manages to be a nice soft-spoken gentleman, and a great
ambassador for Stoneworks Climbing Gym. Here he climbs the classic Wartley's Revenge , a 5.11b trad route.
Ian (better known as Reef) kicks butt on Double Trouble , a very cool arete in the Christian Brothers area.
Typical of the guy who while at the Gunks asked where the bouldering was, Jeff and Brad boulder a
difficult traverse surrounded by some of the best sport climbing in the west.
Jeff is the MAN! Note the extremely well kept up trail system at Smith courtesy of the Oregon State Park system.
While providing great access to the Smith climbs (the approach trail is a super easy hike in), the trails also
aid in preventing erosion.
Chris Gorman and Ha Nguyen get a little bouldering love on a tough 5.12c start.
While climbing, we managed to gain some new recuits who joined us back in Portland. Here, Brandon Busch displays
the one pound burgers which make Calamity Jane's Hamburger Parlour famous. The comment was, "My dad always told
me never to eat anything bigger than my head. This is pretty close."
Brandon gets through the crux of the burger, which I'd rate about a 5.10c. Nice finish! Way to top out!
Jeff decided that he wanted to try some new things while in Portland, so here he digs into some chicken feet
at Dim Sum.
Yum, yum, give me more!
Downtown Portland is full of surprises. Here Jeff and Brad show off a great sign.
Brad and I posing at Multnomah Falls.
Return to main page