These pictures are from a party that we hosted for Bill Righter's 30th birthday, and
from some excellent climbing we did for Memorial Day weekend at Smith Rock, OR.

Bill's birthday


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Bill's birthday was hosted at Stonework's climbing gym, where we added a poker table, a blackjack table,
and many friends and family to help celebrate Bill's 30th birthday. Here we're finishing the decorating,
and having a few snacks waiting for the birthday boy to arrive. From left to right is Larry Wickstrom,
his girlfriend Lissa (and their dog Winston), Ross Segelken (and his dog Duke), Allison Dehaan (one of the
organizers of this event), Juan Rodriguez and Cynthia.


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To celebrate the occasion, Juan and Cynthia bought Bill a rubber bat - "Batwing buddy - YEAH!".

A video of Bill opening the bat - VIDEO


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We also hosted a high-stakes, tournament-style $5 buy-in poker game. These were the players:
Bill "I already know what cards you have before you do" Righter. Bill cleaned me out with a flush
on the river that beat my straight. Dirty rat anyway.


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Bill's buddy from way back, Travis, traveled all the way from southern Ohio to be with Bill for his birthday.
Travis is also a mean card player. Not surprisingly, it was Travis and Bill at the end.


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Jordan "I have no tell signs but I'm going to just randomly throw out ridiculous comments so that you
never know what I'm thinking" Disko.


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Matt "I'm such a nice guy that I'll keep the gym open until 2 AM for you clowns" Spohn.


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Ross Segelken. I actually don't have a comment for Ross since he was playing pretty conservatively when
I was at the table (all of the 30 minutes I lasted). Great party! Thanks to Allison and Paul for organizing
and putting it all together and thanks to Bill for being born and giving us an excuse to celebrate!


Smith Rock for Memorial Day


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Jordan Disko, Paul Dehaan, and I woke up early after Bill's party to make the trek over to Smith for Sunday and Monday
climbing. Here is Jordan crossing through Asterisk Pass over to the backside. This was the day that Jeff Hemphill
was going to bring us up the Monkey Face.


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I think I like Paul's aviator shades better than these.


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We cruised over to the backside to begin the climb up the Monkey Face. Here is Jordan picking the Monkey's
nose before we got started.


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Jeff Hemphill and Mikey were one party and Jordan and I formed the second party of 2. The climb starts up the
west side of the rock, ascends two trad pitches (both 5.8 I think), to a bolt ladder and then a bolted sport
pitch out of the Monkey's mouth and up to the top. The climb is called West Face Variation .
This is Jeff pulling the first tough move off the ground.


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I got to the first belay station with Mikey still there. He wanted his picture on my website so that he, too,
can be stalked by weird internet girls. Reminder to add Mikey's last name. He's single ladies!


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Here, Jordan climbs up the last of the second pitch. I think I placed about 14 gear placements in the 30 m of climbing
so Jordan was sick of cleaning my gear at this point. Lucky for him, we had a bolt ladder next!


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Mikey and I at the bottom of the bolt ladder. The group in front of us took a full 2 hours to get up the bolt
ladder so we were more than a little delayed at this point. This view looks out to the west of Smith Rock towards
Central Oregon.


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It's a little tough to get oriented, but this is Jeff aiding up the 3rd pitch. Since I had never aided before,
I got to learn how to use aiders (etriers) and a fifi hook. I don't think I'll ever make aiding a full-time gig
however. It's not the fastest way to get up rock. Note the 2nd of the previous party. We figured we had waited
long enough so Jeff started putting his own rope up.


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I took a break from "Step up - Fifi to daisy chain - clip next bolt - step up" to snap a shot of Jordan belaying me.
I'm not sure I'll get used to sitting back in my harness while climbing though. The search and rescue station we started
at is visible at the ground to the left of the picture.


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I screwed up and didn't tell Jordan he'd need an etrier or a fifi hook. That meant he had to do all kinds of
gymnastics to make his way up the ladder.


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Here he is tugging on draws to get a few extra inches.


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Jordan's sling construction (thanks Jeff) for step holds. This pitch actually goes free at ~ 5.13 for the not quite
faint of heart.


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Jordan Disko.


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At this point, it's probably useful to note that the wind on Monkey Face was awful. This was made more so
by the fact that I hadn't adequately packed clothes meaning I froze sitting in the Monkey's mouth. Needless
to say, I learned a valuable lesson that it's important to pack more clothes than you ever think on a
multi-pitch route, and also that if I don't, Jeff normally has a shirt for me. Here, Jordan is pictured
at the top of Monkey Face with its shadow behind us on the Misery Ridge trail.


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Jeff and Mikey at the top. Note Jeff's beautiful gown of rope bag. He also forgot to pack a jacket
and immediately commandeered his shirt I had previously stolen.


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Jeff - "Nice of you guys to finally show up. Now, give me my shirt and you can have this nice warm
rope bag to stay warm in." I think the rope bag gown will be all the rage in this year's prom season.


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Mike (insert last name here).


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After 4 years of looking at this rock, I finally (with kudos to Jeff for the route-finding and to
Jordan for the last pitch lead) made it to the top of Monkey Face.


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The last pitch is the Panic pitch. We did a small variation called Monkey Off my Back which goes
at 5.8 with a big E for exposure. Jordan led this pitch and he's describing here a situation he had at the
critical point of the traverse. Jordan - "I was locked off on the hold, I reached down for a quickdraw, and then
realized I hadn't grabbed a quickdraw and this sling mess wasn't going to help me clip in AT ALL!" I told Jordan
that you can't buy exposure like this.


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The four of us fighting to stay warm at the summit of Monkey Face - 27 May 2007. Great climb guys. Thanks again
to Jeff for showing us the way and for wanting to do this climb again.


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The rappel off the top is more than a little scary. First you drop down to the monkey's nose and then it's a
2 rope rappel all the way down to the ground level with most of it sitting in air getting thrown around by the wind.
That's Jordan Disko on rappel.


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Jordan in space.


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Monkey Face, Smith Rock, Oregon gets the Paul Perrault stamp of approval, although I don't know whether I ever need
to do the climb again.


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This is why it's called Monkey Face. The giant opening is the mouth, which is at the top of the 3rd pitch.


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After hiking all the way around the park and getting back to the car after 9PM, we decided to have a lighter day
at Smith for Monday. Here, Paul Dehaan gets his lead head on and climbs Snuffy Smith in the 4 Horsemen area.


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After Jordan put up a fairly stiff 5.10a next to Snuffy and I climbed Pop Goes the Nubbin ,
Jeff picked up his sack and hopped on Karate Crack , a Smith trad classic (5.10A). Jeff's hand jamming is
far better than mine and he stitched this thing up.


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The whole route is visible here, complete with the junky traverse and drop down into the pod for belaying.


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Jeff is in the crack.


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Jeff, belaying Jordan from the pod.


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While waiting, I found my artistic side and took a shot of Paul gazing wistfully off towards the Crooked River.


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Jordan just loved the crack. It's definitely an art form.


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In my grand tradition of cursing and screaming my way up crack climbs in order to get better at them, I put
another run on one. My slippers were not the optimum climbing shoe here, but I managed to stay in the crack and
actually even sunk a jam or two. Paul (cursing out loud) - "C'mon you hand jam - SINK!". Notice the thumbs
down jam. I'll learn better someday.


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This almost looks like I know what I'm doing.


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We lastly moved over to the Aggro Gully to try out a much-hyped climb called Toxic , going at
5.11b. Paul Dehaan showed up with the biggest nuts and so he got the first lead attempt. The climb is
really steep, really pumpy, but fairly short (6 bolts). The hold Paul just got here is the start move for
the big dyno up to the next big pocket on the left. Yeah, that's right - THAT'S the next hold.


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Paul, loading up for a really tough dyno.


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Nice timing on this shot by Jordan of Paul going for the dyno. It was not to be however and Mr Hemphill took a run.


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Jeff then put a run on Toxic . Here he is going for the dyno, which none of us wound up making.


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Jeff, however, found the clever deadpoint static move that avoids the dyno and went on to finish the lead.
Nice lead Jeff, leading the two toughest routes of the weekend. Here he is going for the finish.


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Here's Jordan trying the same move sequence.


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A really inventive sequence, which looked pretty, but was unsuccessful. I wound up cleaning the route
and getting it courtesy of Jeff's beta. Nice climbing gents!


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On the way home, we stopped for dinner at the Terrebonne Depot, the great new restaurant in Terrebonne on the
way out of the park. Jordan had a coffee and we thought the cup was massive. Paul looks like a little kid
drinking from it since it's so huge.

Paul Dehaan's pictures


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The view from the top of Misery Ridge. Paul Dehaan took the hit for the team and spent the afternoon on top
of Misery Ridge to take these shots of us climbing.


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Monkey Face.


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A lizard.


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A study in focus. Focus NEAR...


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Focus FAR!


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More of the lizard.


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Jeff hauling up on the bolt ladder.


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Jeff playing with his daisy chain.


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Jordan, Mikey, and I at the bottom of the bolt ladder.


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"Haul, Jeff, haul!"


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Jeff hauling.


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Jeff hauling.


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Chilling out, waiting for our turn.


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This shot gives a great perspective of what we're climbing.


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"Hey, mom check out this sweet cave!"


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People slackline to the nose of this point from the mouth that Jeff is in.


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Jeff, getting ready to belay Mikey up.


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Mikey's got this all sorted out.


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I had a lot of learning to do on this pitch. It took a while but once you get the rhythm down, it moves alright.


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Jeff and Mikey.


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Jeff and Mikey.


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A great shot, showing the top of Monkey Face. Stepping out the right side of the mouth earns you
"exposure you can't buy".


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Mike is getting ready to start the Panic Pitch. I'm still hauling up the bolt ladder.


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Mike has stepped out into the abyss and is heading out.


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This shows the exposure a little better.


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Mike has conquered his demons and led the Panic Pitch.


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Jeff considers his next move.


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"Hey, no one told me that cleaning is as tough as leading on this stuff!"


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A little foreground.


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Jeff on the top.


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Jeff on the top.


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Jordan Disko loving the fact that he doesn't have an etrier or a fifi hook.


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Jordan is thrilled to be done that pitch.


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Jeff is pleased that we're almost started the last pitch as they need our rope to get down and it wasn't warm out.


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Ace and Gary.


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Jordan is enjoying the mouth. "My balls are THIS big!"


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Artsy shot.


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"How many feet is it to the bottom?"


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"Wow, yup, it's a ways down!" Kudos to Jordan for being the only one to look down at Panic Point.


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Jordan climbing.


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Jordan climbing. This pitch is called Monkey on my Back .


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Great shot of Jordan climbing.


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There were a lot of great holds on this climb, but it seemed like they were right in the middle of crappy holds.


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A little perspective.


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While this pitch is rated as 5.8, it has a good amount of sack in it.


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Did I mention that the wind was REALLY cold all day on this climb? That's right, I took my shoes off and
put my socks on to keep warm.


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More of Jordan climbing.


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Great colour here.


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This hold makes you want to not let go of it.


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slow moving.


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Gratuitous heel hook.


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Once you get here, it's all beautiful climbing.


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Small feet to medium hands to more small feet.


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A great pitch.


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Jordan belaying me up the last pitch.


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That traverse freaks a guy out a little since even if you fall on top rope, you'll have to prussic up. Yuck.


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Nice zoom lens Paul!


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Jeff and Mikey: "It's ABOUT time!"


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Jordan is thrilled to be done.


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Yes, that's right, that's a rope bag that Jeff is wearing. As I mentioned above, it's not warm.


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Monkey Face, Smith Rock State Park, Oregon.


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Did I mention that we started around 1pm?


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Monkey Face.


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More of the Monkey Face.


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Juniper tree.


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Setting sun.


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Setting sun.


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Setting sun.


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I think every climber loves this shot of Smith at the end of a great day of climbing.


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Asterisk Pass at sunset.


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Different light.

Jordan's camera


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The front side of the climbing area, as we're heading over the pass.


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I hate the walk off from the pass.


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Paul Dehaan on the back side of Smith.


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That's why it's called Monkey Face.


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Jeff on the first pitch.


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The group in front of us took FOREVER on the bolt ladder. We almost had our whole party on the ledge at one point.


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View from the ledge.


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The Misery Ridge trail.


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This is Paul on the Ridge.


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The backside of Smith Rock.


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People actually climb this side of the rock too. Looks a little slick to me.

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